CONSOLE SKIFF WITH RAISED BULWARK (Glen-L stitch and glue design)




(1)

Two 4' x 8' tables with one table holding 9 sheets of 3/8" 7 ply super marine plywood ready for the skiff construction.


(2)

Tracing the drawings onto the plywood. I used a crs (corregated roof spacer) cut in half. One is bent to the line and marked while the second crs piece becomes the router platform.


(3)

After tracing the line onto the plywood the crs is pin nailed to the line. A second crs is pin nailed about 2" from the guide strip. This provides a platform for the router. A router with a stop bearing and a straight bit is used along the guide strip to cut out the traced part. The first cut piece becomes the guide for the second piece if needed.


(4)

This picture shows the nice curve that is produced by using the crs (corregated roof spacer) A great time saver.


(5)

This shows the centerline stitched and the temporary frame in position prior to pulling the two halves together.


(6)

The two halves have been pulled together and the transom installed as the hull starts to take shape.


(7)

The two 4'x8' tables were designed so the legs could be shortened. Each leg is shortened about 6" by removing four drywall screws. This keeps the boat at a confortable working height. The boat is on skids and will be pushed forward onto the lower table.


(8)

The floor bracing and joints have been glassed and puttied.


(9)

Rear bulkhead and added bulwark and transom height addition. Note the spacers for the starboard bulwark. These spacers are pin-nailed to the bulwark and make installing the bulwark quick and accurate.


(10)

Floor soles are installed and the forward bulkhead which will hold the anchor and line.


(11)

The boat will be turned over with the help of my wife, a engine lift and a little engineering.


(12)

The hull is now ready to be glassed and prepared for paint.


(13)

The hull is glassed and painted. Lots and lots of sanding.


(14)

Black and White.


(15)

Under the drivers seat is a porta potty and under the passenger seat a ice chest.


(16)

Porta potty ready for action.


(17)

Dashboard and wind screen with the seats folded down. The Console has been made 5" wider to protect the occupants.


(18)

Front bench seat with a aluminum fuel tank below. The hot seat. On the upper port side of the console is the fuel fill with the vent along side.


(19)

Front view.


(20)

Battery Location. There will be a shield installed between the battery and fuel tank.


(21)

Throttle and shift control. Above and to the right in that little hole is the engine trim for the trailer.


(22)

Transom engine plate.


(23)

Rear view.


(24)

Folding seats. Arm rests on the outside only port and starboard will be added later.


(25)

Engine tilt system pump. A lid will be placed over this opening and held in place with screws and finish washers.


(26)

This added bullwark on the transom is held in place by (3) 8" S/S lag bolts and epoxy and tied into the side.


(27)

The Anchor Locker will store the anchor, chain and rode.


(28)

The top lids are screwed down but are removable and the front hinged covers can be opened for access. The two center compartments contain trim hoses, electrical and one bilge pump in each section. (1300 gal each)


(29)

This compartment is for engine and electrical only.


(30)

This compartment is for storage.


(31)

Two long storage compartments located between the front seat and anchor locker.


(32)

Same compartments with the lids installed. Indoor/outdoor carpeting installed.


(33)

Panel installed between the tank and battery.


(34)

Final trim made from several laminations of mahogany.


(35)

Bow roller.


(36)

Armrest installed on the starboard side.


(37)

Armrest on port side. Fuel fill and battery swx with a kill swx for the fishfinder to prevent electrolysis in salt water.


(38)

Trailer. (#1000 Glen-L)


(39)

Trailer.


(40)

Trailer.


(41)

Trailer.


(42)

Trailer.


(43)

Trailer


(44)


The trailer was welded with a old 225 amp Lincoln stick welder that I was given about 30 years ago. I had only tried it once on stainless steel about 10 years ago and had no idea what I was doing and the end result showed it. The piece I welded ended up in the trash. Needless to say, I was very reluctant to try it again. I had previous experience with gas welding and was very good at it. I built two bi-planes with gas welded frames made with 4130 tubing. I now have no gas equipment. Since I had this 225 amp relic sitting there defying me to use it I decided to give it one more try. This time I did my homework and bought a video on stick welding a good helmet, shirt and gloves. After buying several types of welding rod I actually began to put some decent welds together. I checked my welds and when I was sure the penetration was correct I started welding the trailer. I would not recommend this type of welder to the novice. Use a wire feed mig or tig welder.

Tools that were used to construct this boat and trailer.

Table saw.
Band saw.
Cutoff saw.
Drill press.
Planner.
Router.
Sander/polisher.
Air compressor.
Pin Nailer.
Engine Lift.
Lincoln 225amp welder.
Electric hand planner.
Steel cutoff blades for the saw and cutoff saw.
Various hand tools.


Some of the changes that I made.

I made the console 5" wider and a little higher to protect the occupants.
I used 3/8" plywood for the console and seats instead of 1/4".
I made the center console and seat bases removable by using 1/4" s/s machine bolts and screw-in nuts seated in epoxy.
I made removable lids for the anchor locker and the two floor compartments. (They are not hinged, my own design)

I really enjoyed building this boat and trailer.
The plans were straight-forward and easy to understand.
The personnel at GlenL are top notch.
This is my 2nd Glen-L boat.
Go For It. Just be safety minded and donot work when you are tired. It took me 2 years to build this project.

P.S. Things left to do. VHF radio. Folding top. Cleats. Bumpers. Anchor and dock lines. Safety equipt etc, etc, etc.