Some Seams And Edges Used in Felt Garments

Pat Spark 2001
 

 

HONG KONG BOUND SEAMS

Version One/ Using Ultrasuede (or Leather):
Use 1 1/2" strips of Ultrasuede. With right sides together, sew a piece of Ultrasuede to one of the felt edges you are going to seam together. Do the same thing to the other felt edge. Place the two edges together with right sides touching. Stitch 1/2" from the edge of the Ultrasuede, following the edge of the felt. On the inside, fold the free edge of the Ultrasuede strip over the raw edge of the felt to meet the first stitching and hand stitch in place. (If the Ultrasuede is cut a little wider, it can be machine sewn in place following the instructions for the Leather/Ultrasuede edge binding. NAFN Issue 8) (Handwoven, Jan/Feb '92, P. 87-88; "Felted Cape Coat" by Dee Knisely)
                                                                                                               

     

Version Two:

Do the same as above, except use a wider cloth bias strip. Add at least 1/2" to the width for seam allowance. When the bias tape is sewn together and brought to the inside, turn under the seam allowance to meet the first stitching and then hand stitch in place.

REGULAR, SEWN SEAMS

Place the edges right sides together and sew. Press open the seam, sew a line on either side of the seam to catch and help flatten the excess fabric in the seam allowance.   See illustration A.

OVERLAPPED, SEWN SEAMS

Lay the front seam on top of the back seam with a 1/2" overlap.  Hand sew the edges together on the top and bottom sides of the seam.  Cover the seam decorative stitching. See illustration B. 

BUTTED, SEWN SEAMS

With no seam allowance, butt together the edges which are to be seamed.  Use a connecting stitch such as the figure eight to hold the edges together. This stitching will show, so the yarn should be well coordinated with the fabric.  See illustration C.